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The up-close fascination of Austronesian cultures
By Nancy T. Lu/ Taiwan News, Supplement Writer
Photos courtesy of Maolin National Scenic Area Administration
 Paragliding in Saijia

Paragliding in Saijia

Organized events like the annual Festival of Austronesian Cultures in Taitung are occasions for unforgettable encounters with Taiwan's colorful aborigines and even tribal peoples from overseas.

The Austronesian race consists of peoples whose speech belongs to what linguists call the Austronesian language group, the most widely dispersed language family in the world. This language family extends from Easter Island off the western coast of South America in the east to Madagascar Island off the eastern coast of Africa in the west, and from Taiwan to the north to New Zealand in the south. Included are a large number of islands in the Pacific and Indian Oceans.

Scholars note the preeminent position of Taiwan's aborigines in the history of the development of the Austronesian peoples. They even put forward the theory that Taiwan is the origin of the Austronesian race.

This year's Festival of Austronesian Cultures, which was timed to coincide with the Amis Harvest Festival, unfolded toward the end of July at the Taitung Forest Park and the National Museum of Prehistory, focusing on the theme of "Strength and Beauty." Participants paid special tribute to the late Yang Chuan-kwang, a favorite son of Taitung and a member of the Amis aboriginal tribe. Yang, a decathlon silver medalist at the 1960 Olympic Games in Rome, was called Asia's Iron Man at the peak of his athletic career. He passed away earlier this year.

The Solomon Islands, the Philippines, and Palau sent groups to the Austronesian happening sponsored by the Tourism Bureau, the Council of Indigenous Peoples, the Government Information Office, and the Taitung County Government.

Domestic and foreign tourists who are interested in experiencing Taiwan's aboriginal culture up close during the rest of the year have the option of hopping on the Taiwan Tour Bus in Zuoying and motoring to the 80-hectare Taiwan Indigenous Culture Park in Majia, Pingtung County.

The ride takes about 50 minutes. Along the way, the guide is likely to point out the direction of Moon World, with its barren hill terrain, to the right.

At one point, the bullet train on the high speed rail to the left of the freeway is seen moving from east to west. (Generally, the high-speed line goes north-south.)

Before the end of the day and on the return trip, it is possible to catch a distant glimpse of another unique geographical landscape in southern Taiwan. The site formed by the continuous erosion of a thick conglomerate stratum by rain and weather along the Laonong River in Liouguei Township takes the name of 18 Arhats (Lohans). It has the reputation of "Little Gueilin."

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Visit to Majia

 Indigenous food in Majia

Indigenous food in Majia

Majia in Pingtung County is known for its communities of Paiwan and Rukai tribes. The aboriginal population in Majia itself is very limited though, but Sandimen has more.

Betelnut trees abound along the road leading to the culture park, that opens a window on Taiwan's indigenous peoples, including the Saisiat, Thao, Bunun, Tsou, Rukai, Paiwan, Atayal, Taroko (or Truku), Kuvalan, Amis, Puyuma, and Yami (or Tao). The area in the summertime is harvest time for the seasonal mangoes. Lychees, longans and pineapples are plentiful, too. In the wintertime, dates or jujubes make up the fruit bounty of the land.

On every day except Monday, visitors can explore at will the Taiwan Indigenous Culture Park across the Ailiao River that flows between Majia and Sandimen. This mountainous area, accessible after paying the entrance ticket costing NT$150, is 145 to 220 meters above sea level.

The Tamaluwan Section and the Fuguwan Section of the park feature traditional houses of Taiwan's aborigines. The slate structures usually arouse curiosity.

Learn a bit about each of the 12 tribes during a visit. Check out the exhibition with the volunteer guides. Atayal women, for example, wear facial tattoos (or did, at one time) only after proving their weaving skill and cultivation capability. A male member of the Rukai tribe earns the right to wear a lily decoration after catching more than five boars.

The Thao tribe, the smallest ethnic group traced to the Sun Moon Lake area in Taiwan, is famous for its pestle music. The musical talent of the Amis made the international limelight during the 1996 Atlanta Olympics.

The Saisiat tribe honors the spirits of the "Short People" in a well-known ritual. The Yami or Tao natives of Orchid Island are believed to have migrated from Batanes in the Bashi Channel, where inhabitants speak the same language as the Yami.

Ball spiking to bring good luck is practiced among the Paiwan people, known for their handicrafts. The Puyuma group excels in weaving.

The tour bus winding its way inside the park takes visitors to the round-shaped Naluwan Theater to catch a scripted performance of authentic aboriginal songs and dances. One tribe's songs and dances are highlighted each time.

The one-day trip on the Taiwan Tour Bus, which costs NT$1,400 per person, does not include an actual visit to a tribal settlement. But a lunch of indigenous food is part of the package. The park has a hotel for those wishing to stay longer and explore more sites nearby.

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Maolin for nature-trippers

Butterflies in Maolin

Butterflies in Maolin

A stop at the Maolin National Scenic Area in Maolin, Kaohsiung County, can be an eye-opener. Maolin is one of the most beautiful areas in southern Taiwan.

If time permits, have a look at the winding streams and circular hillock flows at places like Mt. Longtou (Dragon's Head Mountain) and Mt. Shetou (Snake's Head Mountain).

Taoyuan, Liouguei, and Maolin in the Maolin National Scenic Area boast one of the heaviest concentrations of hot springs in Taiwan. The spring water is clear and odorless.

White-water rafting from Baolai Bridge No. 1 to Sinfa Bridge along the Laonong River promises the adventure-seekers unparalleled thrills along a 12.5-kilometer whitewater course.

For those who prefer a high-flying experience, Saijia is the place for paragliding and hang-gliding. Enthusiasts with a yen for high adventure drop from an elevation of 300 meters.

Nature-trippers can travel to the butterfly valleys in July and August. Around Wutai, fireflies light up the night. The mountains here are home to the Formosan whistling thrush and water redstart.

 White-water rafting in Laonong River

White-water rafting in Laonong River

Meinong, where Hakka culture thrives, is also covered in the one-day itinerary. Beautifully painted paper umbrellas have long been produced in Meinong for inclusion in the wedding dowry in accordance with Hakka tradition. Paper, "jhih" in Chinese, is a homonym for child or offspring in some dialects. The umbrella's inclusion sums up a wish that the marriage will be blessed with children. Meinong is also the place to relish flat noodles called "ban tiao" and taro delicacies.

Getting there: Take National Freeway No. 4 in Kaohsiung, go east, connect to National Freeway No. 3, then drive south until you reach Majia. Farther on is Sandimen.

For information about the Taiwan Tour Bus, go to website http://taiwantourbus.com.tw Or call the Tourism Bureau's 24-hour hotline 0800-011-765. To sign up for the one-day tour described above, call Chinhsi Travel Agency in Kaohsiung at tel. 07-316-1983. The email address is: v15663388@yahoo.com.tw

To get to Taitung from Kaohsiung, drive along Provincial Highway 1 to Fonggang and then turn eastward on Provincial Highway 9 (South-Link Highway) and proceed to Taitung.

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